Ethiopian Coffee-Flavour to Savour

As I enjoyed my cup of Ethiopian coffee this morning I realized that it has been a month since my last blog post. I spent a week recovering from travel illness, worked for a couple of weeks and then was working out of town again for several days. It’s hard to believe a month has passed since my visit to the African continent.

Ethiopian java is among the best coffee in the world. It also originated in Ethiopia in the Kaffa region. I can buy Ethiopian coffee locally at a coffee-roasting house I frequent, but to experience it in Ethiopia is something special.

Coffee in Ethiopia is equivalent to Italy’s espresso. The Italian influence still remains in Ethiopia where their terms for coffee are used for Ethiopian java.

Ethiopian coffee is rich and robust and is to be enjoyed after every meal. It is often drunk straight like espresso or with steamed milk like macchiato. It can be cut with chai tea, or can be served with either cardamom, butter, salt, and local bitter herbs. It can also be served with freshly popped popcorn.

What is interesting with Ethiopian coffee is that there is often a ceremony that accompanies it. Green beans are roasted in front of guests until they are dark brown. They are then manually ground. The coffee is brewed by hand, poured into demitasse cups, and served with sugar.

As guests of Ethiopian partners, we were educated on the best flavours of coffee to buy from this homeland where exporting of coffee is an important contributor to the local economy. Our hosts told us that the best coffee is Yirga Cheffe, followed by Sidama, Harar (most expensive), Keffa, Wolega, Limu and Bale.

Sharing a cup of coffee with Ethiopian people is not just drinking a beverage. It is an invitation to share in their lives and in their warm hospitality. Food and drink were extended to guests wherever we visited with local people--even in the poorest of the poor families we met with.

In one village they freshly roasted coffee for us, made bread that morning, roasted chickpeas, shared bananas from their farm, and bought apple pop to share with their Canadian guests. In another family’s home we were treated to Injera bread, recently harvested honey, and Ethiopian coffee. Even though language can be a barrier in communicating in other countries, food and drink were universal in being able to bond with others.

Life in Ethiopia is very hard and much different than it is in Canada. The people I spent time with over many cups of coffee taught me much about how to be fully present with others in my life. They live simple and humble lives, but their lives are rich because of how they value people in them.

The people we spent time with in Ethiopia were poor, but they live their lives with much love and hope. They showed me new ways of living my life with renewed Strength, Courage, and Determination.                  

February 18, 13

I am safely home in Canada

Today, I finally feel well enough to write a blog about my travels in Ethiopia.  Like many travellers who go to foreign lands, I’ve been sick since the last week of my trip from something I ate or drank. My doctor has put me on antibiotics to rid my body of what she thinks may be a parasite.

Technology is an intermittent reality in Ethiopia, as is electricity. It was difficult to post blogs from Ethiopia due to a lack of wi-fi access in my travels in rural and remote towns. Amazingly, cell phone access was available in many parts of the country where electricity is yet to be established. A world of contrasts of old vs. new in the world of utilities and technology.

Riding the Roads of Ethiopia

Let me start off by saying that I could not drive in Ethiopia!

Having been behind a Canadian steering wheel for nearly 40 years, driving in Ethiopia is chaos.  Most foreigners elect to hire drivers to go from place to place than risk driving either because of congested traffic or difficult rocky and mountainous roads.

Here, it is the thousands of donkeys, goats, and cattle that are kings of the roads in rural areas, highways, and yes even in places like the capital city, Addis Ababa. Car horns are amongst the most used parts of vehicles maneuvering through traffic.

Sprinkle this mayhem with pedestrians that come at you from all directions—front, sides, behind, and cars that zigzag into your lane from either side and it all adds up to an ever present accident waiting to happen.  Here two lane roadways do become streets for four vehicles!

Miraculously, I saw few accidents, nor stricken pedestrians or animals on the roadsides. On the national highway there is no speed limit; drivers decide what they feel is a safe rate of travel.  The exception is when the highway passes through local towns where a lowered speed limit is posted. One of the NGO’s that we work with has chosen to limit their highway travel to 80 kms per hour. Their motto:  “Reduce Speed, Increase Longevity.”

In the time I spent travelling here, it was always with a driver who was either a work colleague who lives here, or an NGO partner who was native to the land.  With the latter, it felt sometimes like the movie “Driving Miss Daisy,” except that this Miss Daisy was younger than the movie version and the drivers insisted that I sit on the front seat for better picture taking.  They were great at stopping their vehicles to enable me to capture the countless spectacular scenes of Ethiopia with my camera.

Toyota should think about doing a television commercial here.  The majority of  vehicles driven in Ethiopia are Toyota Land Cruisers. Many of them are white, signifying NGO’s who are also given orange license plates identifying them as aid vehicles. This is done so that locals can quickly identify them as assistance vehicles should they be in trouble.

Interestingly, many of the NGO drivers are also fully trained mechanics, as garages are hard to find, and the roads travelled can create problems for vehicles.  One of the drivers I spent several days with noted that he spent seven years learning his trade in how to fix and maintain Toyota Land Cruisers.

The white vehicles are also “magnets” which attract the attention of local people—especially children.  NGO trucks and those who are inside them represent money in one form or another to the locals.

As you pass by them, hands extend for money, while others frantically wave to see a rare sighting of a white person.  Vehicles are swarmed if you stop, and you can expect that some of them will want to shake your hand or have their photo taken as something novel to do. Children wait for vehicles to stop and stand ready to pose for cameras. Others come by wanting to sell you things.

The children will call to vehicles carrying white passengers yelling  “You, you, you”, or “Money, money, money”, or “Firenje” (Ethiopian for French white people who came here many years ago to build the railway).

White people in these parts strike up a lot of curiosity, especially in the countryside. In some of the rural remote mountain villages that we visited, we were the first white people that residents in the community had ever encountered.  One elderly woman said that her mother told her as a child that there were white people in other parts of the world, but our Canadian NGO contingent were the first Caucasians she had ever seen.

Fuel for vehicles comes here either from Libya or Sudan. It will cost you $1.09 (20 Ethiopian Birr) Canadian per litre to fill your tank.  As with other parts of life in Ethiopia, it is not uncommon to see contrasts in modes of transportation.  At one gas bar, the owner of two donkeys sidled up to a gas pump, tied them to the pump, and then went inside the store to get supplies. Old transportation meets new transportation everywhere in Ethiopia.

Motorcycles driven by young men (without helmets) are everywhere in city and rural areas.  Some even use the motorbikes to carry grass for animals on their backs, a chore that would have been done previously by donkeys.

For 20,000-70,000 Birr one can buy a motorbike in one of the larger centres. Cars—mostly Asian imports like Toyota, Nissan, Huyundai, Suzuki, and Isuzu --- can be had for 200,000-300,000 Birr.  North American vehicles are non-existent. Countless thousands move from place to place by foot or public transport, as the price of motorized travel is not affordable for many in Ethiopia.

Addis Ababa, a city of 4 million has few traffic lights. In the many trips made throughout the city I only saw traffic lights four times, and only once were they working. Traffic is managed by street police who stand in the middle of the mayhem and give out driving instructions by blowing whistles and gesturing with their arms.

When travelling the streets of Addis Ababa, you won’t find multinational businesses that dot streets of major cities elsewhere in the world. There are no McDonald’s restaurants, no Starbucks coffee cafes, no Walmarts or Pizza Huts.  These companies have been denied business entry into the country by the government.  You may find signage for Asian electronics companies, but local businesses will sell you their products.  What you will find is a wide assortment of Coca-Cola and Pepsi products, with flavors locally adapted to the African marketplace.

Anywhere one travels in rural Ethiopia, you can expect spectacular sights.   Surrounded by mountains in many areas, the vistas envelop you with beautiful scenery and vegetation not seen in Canada.

Although the African wildlife is better seen in Kenya where there are more forests, in our travels we did manage to see a herd of camels grazing in grasslands, antelope in the distance, congoni (an African animal similar to deer), a vulture, guinea fowl, a baboon on the roadside, and a jackal darting across the road as we approached.

Ethiopia is a land that stimulates all of your senses.  Every day I resolved to experience all of it with Strength, Courage, and Determination.

  

Zeway, Ethiopia; Greenhouses and a National Highway Complicate Life in Zeway --- February 7-13

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This lakeside city of 60,000 is named after nearby Lake Zeway, which wraps around one side of it.  Like other parts of Ethiopia, it presents a life of contrasts.

The area is one where the wealthy vacation as the lake provides local tourism.  Cabins can be rented a couple of kilometers off the highway and people come to relax, swim, and fish. 

Fishing is also an important part of the area’s economy with fishers supplying restaurants and local markets.  As well, some vegetable farmers in this part of Ethiopia can make a reasonable living because of the lake and irrigation.

In some ways Zeway is more prosperous than other parts of Africa. The lake provides income for up to 11,000 local people and others from across Africa, because of an international floral greenhouse operation established here by a private business owner from the Netherlands.  This greenhouse and many others like it are a growing economic sector in Ethiopia.

In Zeway, row upon row of greenhouses go on for many kilometers and greet you as you enter the city from its outskirts.  The greenhouse owner in Zeway established a business here because of the tropical climate and abundant access to water.  It is said to be the largest greenhouse operation in Ethiopia.

Exotic and other flowers grown here are trucked daily to Addis Ababa about three hours away, and are put on planes bound for the Netherlands to be distributed to other worldwide destinations. Chances are that some flowers I have bought in my Canadian city may have been grown here.

The other noteworthy distinction about Zeway is that the national highway that runs through it also becomes its main street. The highway takes travellers into Kenya.

And while there are many who work in the greenhouses to support their families, others in this city face extreme poverty. Ironically, poverty is further complicated here because of the greenhouse and national highway.

A migrant population is the result of these two features, and with them comes social issues locals have to contend with. Trucks bearing the name of the greenhouse move in and out of the city daily to load flowers for sale elsewhere. 

Truckers and people passing through to Kenya who may be HIV/AIDS infected patronize sex trade workers and spread the disease in the community. The locals are then left with lifetime consequences of dealing with the illness and the effects on their families.

Families who are affected by HIV/AIDS encounter poverty, as their loved ones may not be able to work or have to adjust their work hours due to illness. Because of this, many of the NGO’s that work here have AIDS/HIV education and healthcare as part of the outreach they provide to citizens. 

Yet despite these realities and hardships of life, many families here with the assistance of NGO’s are coping and developing better ways of life for their children. Social change is slow, but many of the changes that are occurring are positive. It is inspiring to listen to parental stories of hope and dreams of the future for their children.

These people, in a land so far away from my home, are teaching me many things.  They have a persevering spirit and a willingness to succeed.  Their examples remind me of my cancer battle nearly three years ago.  They give me Strength, Courage, and Determination to live a life that matters.

Addis Ababa—A Fascinating City Jan. 29-13

It’s only the second day in this city, but Addis Ababa fascinates me.  In some ways it’s a modern city, in others it’s developing its identity in a Biblical country known in earlier times as Cush.

As I tried to sleep last night, nearby I could hear prayers being sung and chanting somewhere at a mosque or church. They were likely sung in the national language of Amharic. The songs to went on for hours throughout the entire night. While the human holy cries were being sung, street dogs, roosters, crickets, and closer to dawn, birds added their own songs to the people’s nighttime’s prayerful pleas.

This is a city that never sleeps.  Service vehicles shuttle by and sirens are in the distance.  Vehicles start and stop to make their deliveries. At this moment, if I were to step outside my hotel room, I would likely find people on the streets—not walking, but sleeping under the cover of cardboard or a make shift blanket of clothing or some kind of fabric throw.

Addis has had many ethnic influences in its history and in its current state.  It is the only country in the African Union that has not been colonized and you can sense the pride because of it. For a period of time in the early 1900’s until around the Second World War, it was inhabited by Italians who settled in the city in the hopes of being able to take control of the country.  Their influence remains today in an array of pizza stands, Italian restaurants, a shopping district called a “Piazza”, and macchiato coffee, which is served Ethiopian style, in abundance, as its national beverage. 

There are also Western influences in some of the local brands people can purchase in stores and in restaurant food.  Electronics brands are recognizable, but you won’t find large U.S. multinationals here such as McDonald’s, Wal-Mart, Starbucks, and the like. They have not been welcomed to set up shop in this city. 

What you will find are row upon row of many small independent stores and services set up in store fronts of tin, security barred glass, and shuttered doors that lock shut at night.  In contrast, fresh fruit stands add color to the drab metal merchant properties.

Coffee shops are where people gather in this city, with bars being less popular as meeting places. Good coffee is readily available everywhere. It is Ethiopia’s number one exported cash crop. It is robust and rich, and probably the reason why I’m not sleeping tonight.  Our program partner hosts tell us that they will be treating us to an Ethiopian coffee ceremony while we are with them. I can’t wait to be part of the experience.

There are also Asian influences in Addis.  Menus in local restaurants boast of Indian cuisine, with more recent additions of Chinese food.  These ethnic foods are offered to attract Addis’ new citizens from India and China who have come here for commerce.

There are salads available, but your lettuce will be iceberg or perhaps spinach with varying assortments of vegetables or fruits in the mix.  We’ve been told to be leery of ordering them because it is hard to know if they were washed with contaminated water, and we don’t want to risk getting sick.

We’ve been advised that fruit and vegetables with peels are the safest to eat. So last night, my work companion and I thoroughly enjoyed a freshly squeezed cocktail of orange and papaya juice from fruit that was recently picked. It was a delicious and satisfying drink at the end of the day. If we were to make this at home in Winnipeg with fruits that are picked too early so that they can be shipped abroad, the taste could not compare to what we enjoyed here.

The hotel we are staying at offers a buffet breakfast every morning. It has Western continental breakfast foods, but offers its guests Ethiopian morning foods as well. 

Eggs are scrambled with tomatoes. A sautéed vegetable dish is offered with zucchini, green beans, carrots, and onions.  There is a stew “Full” with and some ingredients I can’t identify, but does include red beans, onions, and some kind of fresh spicy peppers. It is glorious when it’s wrapped up in the native “Injera” which is sponge-like fermented bread made from teff flour and cooked in a pan.  Injera is offered in another dish mixed up with beef strips, tomato sauce, and hot spices. It has a wonderful unique taste. “Kinde” is another native ethnic food that is made from boiled barley and oats.  Fresh guava and papaya juices tempt the taste buds.

And of course, there is Ethiopian coffee to jump-start your day with copious quantities of caffeine. It is so hard to resist because it truly is the best coffee I have ever tasted.  My work colleagues told me it would be so, and a trip back home is not complete without loading one’s suitcase full of it.

Music on the plane and in the hotel’s lounge and restaurant were an interesting surprise.  As expected there were some tunes that were Ethiopian.  But what was surprising is that we heard some Western offerings, but they certainly were not recent. On my Ethiopian Airlines flight here, “Jolene” by Dolly Parton was playing and I heard it again later that day in the hotel’s lounge.  Dolly is popular here. Another tune I heard was the old but familiar “Misty Blue”.  At breakfast yesterday, because it is still the Christmas season here (it was celebrated on the Julian calendar on January 7), “Silent Night” played followed by some local pop music. An interesting audio mix!

My morning start will officially be here in a short while. A new day waits to be taken in as we move from the city to rural Ethiopia.  I will greet the day with a zest for life realizing that this new day is a gift given to me to enjoy. I will immerse myself in the experience with Strength, Courage, and Determination.

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia January 28-13

After adjusting to a nine-hour time zone difference and some jet lag, our entourage came to life with the beaming sunlight pouring through the hotel’s restaurant windows.

Winnipeggers have a funny way of connecting with others.  Who would think that the owner of the hotel we’re staying at spent 14 years in our city studying business administration at Red River College and the University of Winnipeg. He and his family returned to their homeland three years ago to run this modern hotel. 

It is a beautiful little hotel in the city and an unknown jewel in tourist circles.  The owner, Mckonnen, is still working on marketing it with the travel hotel website links. Business is good he says and reminisced fondly over breakfast about the time he spent in our city. He says it was a highlight in his life.  Once again Winnipeg proves that six degrees of separation are actually one or two.

Addis is an interesting city. People who call it home live here in two worlds—dire poverty and progress at the same time. It’s not uncommon to see Toyota vehicles on one side of a street and on the same block see donkeys carrying cargo and herds of sheep resting on the roadsides of the main thoroughfares. 

A primarily agrarian nation, 84 per cent of the population of 82 million lives in rural areas. The influence of agriculture is everywhere in the downtown areas of Addis—one could even see a Russian Belarus tractor with farm workers jostling for position on the crowded streets.

I wouldn't want to be a driver in this city.  Driving is an art. One must be on constant watch for pedestrians who come out from everywhere all at once and pay little attention to the vehicles on the road.  There are many traffic circles and many lanes of traffic.  There are some traffic lights in this city of four million, but few of them work.  Tonight on the way home from our dinner, we saw one working for the first time in our two days of travels zipping around the city.

Addis is a city of stark contrasts. The poor and homeless are everywhere. There is no specific ghetto area as the poor live on the sides of the streets, boulevards, and back lanes and in neighbourhoods where those of higher economic status also dwell.  There are gate guards everywhere.  Those with means live amongst those who have nothing, rich and poor coexist in this city of contrasts.  Metal shanties and luxurious homes are located on the same blocks.

Addis is the major international city for the continent of Africa.  The United Nations has a presence here, as do many embassies from around the world.  On our trip to the hotel from the airport we passed by the British, Kenyan, Russian, German, French, U.S., and Egyptian consulates. Today we drove by the Canadian and South African embassies.  All were very different and distinct in their presence and location within the city. 

This morning, we were held up in getting to a briefing meeting with our church members and aid partners by military police directing traffic in the area we were to meet.  It’s a big week here in Addis as the African Union is meeting with international leaders from around the world.  Tonight we happened to be in the area again where the meetings are being held and saw presidential limousines and a heavy police presence on the streets after the meetings adjourned for the day. Canada’s Minister of International Cooperation, Julian Fantino, is representing Prime Minister Stephen Harper at these meetings.  There is heightened security everywhere in this city because of the dignitaries.

There are many more sights and sounds to share, but I must sign off to prepare for meetings tomorrow.  We will be travelling 395 kilometers to a rural area to visit one of our projects.  At night, I will be taught how to cheer for soccer Ethiopian style as the national team is playing Nigeria in the African Cup soccer tournament.  We will watch it from Kucha with our project colleagues. I'm told all activity comes to a halt when soccer—the nation’s favourite team sport is on television.

I am living every moment with joy in this relatively young city in an ancient country.  For the gift I have been given in a second life after cancer and in experiencing a world so far away, I will greet each day with Strength, Courage and Determination.

Eager for Ethiopia

Jan 23/13                 

Ethiopia--a country in central Africa that has intrigued me since I was a young child.  Seventy-two hours from now, a work colleague and I will be on the last leg of our work trip to Ethiopia.

The trip is now moving from the surreal to real. As a cancer survivor, living almost three years with no evidence of disease, the trip is a gift to experience and a dream come true.

My boss asked me in early December if I would like to visit some of hunger relief projects in Ethiopia with some of our members and partners. Then, the end of January seemed so far away. The time is now very near. The need to finalize my schedule, accommodations, and visits has made this trip real.

While I am away, I will spend two weeks in the field in southern Ethiopia. My stops will include visiting projects in Kucha Woreda, Woliata Soddo, and Zeway.   Some of the time we will be in hotels, other days we will stay in primitive guest houses. At one project, I will meet with international colleagues from the United Kingdom who will be visiting at the same time.

I am having a hard time comprehending how far it is from Winnipeg to the capital of Addis Ababa. The trip of 7,590 miles (12,211 km’s) will take about 16 hours with a stop in Toronto to transfer, wait for a connection, and then fly directly to Addis Ababa.

I am eager to soak in the experience of Ethiopia.

It is the birthplace of coffee, to be enjoyed in a land where coffee ceremonies have you partake in coffee being roasted, ground, brewed and served with popcorn. The international city of Addis Ababa holds much to see. There will be the beauty of rural Ethiopia to savor. And, with some luck perhaps, sightings of wild animals in their natural habitat.

Ethiopia is also the home of a World Heritage site and some say the 8^th wonder of the world—the stone churches of Lalibela. I am told that once you have visited the 11 churches all connected underground by tunnels and hand hewn out of mountains centuries ago, the experience stays with you for the rest of your life. I have my flight booked to spend a weekend there.

What I am most looking forward to, is being amongst the people whom we are helping to end hunger. All of the projects we will visit involve some form of food security in helping local citizens to become self sufficient in feeding their families.

The language we will hear spoken is Amharic, although English will be heard in Addis Ababa and Lalibela. We will have field staff and interpreters with us at each site that we will visit. I will have a sense of what it feels like to be a visible minority in a foreign country.

I am going with an open mind and an adventurous spirit. I eagerly await this trip of a lifetime and will joyfully be present with Strength, Courage and Determination.

New Year’s and the Fragility of Life

As New Year’s day approached earlier this week, I had thought about writing about New Year’s resolutions and the countless new people that I would meet in the gym this month who resolved that 2013 would be the year of exercise. They would come in earnest for the first few days, fewer the next week, and by the end of the month it would be the same die hards in the gym that I usually spend my time with.

But New Year’s resolutions seem trite today. 

In the early morning hours of New Year’s day as our daughter and son-in-law were walking home from a friend’s house, he slipped and fell into the path of an oncoming car.

He is lucky to be alive.  Once again, like in the cancer journey, our family is reminded that life is fragile.

Considering that he got hit at 55 kilometers an hour, he’s alive.  He is so fortunate that he is not paralyzed, did not suffer a brain injury or even a concussion.  Rushed by ambulance to the local trauma hospital in critical condition, he primarily suffered lots of broken bones on his face, and a broken shoulder blade. We are grateful he is still with us. 

On Friday, he underwent 9.5 hours of reconstructive surgery to reset his facial bones and create functionality for him. In time, he will be able to live as others live in enjoying food, in being able to speak, and looking like he did (as best as possible) prior to the accident.

Through all of this, we are all faring well. We’re tired. We’re fighting stress-induced colds. We’re making many trips to the hospital. We know our son-in-law is being very well taken care of. All of his medical caregivers have been exceptional.

With his care well in hand, our concerns are now focusing on our daughter.  She was with her husband when he slipped and saw the whole accident unfold in front of her. She is being so strong to get through these first few difficult days, but knows she will have to deal with her own trauma as her husband recovers. He too will relive the accident in his own way, but perhaps fortunately, does not recall it happening.

As we have spent many hours in the surgical intensive care waiting room this week, we witnessed much outpouring of love for our kids.

Prayers, well wishes, offers to wait with our daughter in the waiting room, offers of rides, offers of cleaning their apartment, and offers of food were made over and over again. Words of love were expressed in person, in social media, in phone calls, and in bedside visits. They are being held tightly by so many. Our daughter was overcome with emotion many times as she read messages, took phone calls, and waited in the presence of those who loved her. This freak accident will be a life-changing experience for her and her husband.

We soldier on. These next few months will be hard on all of us for different reasons. Our lives are all changed because of what has happened. And just as I had to deal with my cancer journey one day at a time, so will we deal with this aspect of our lives one day at a time. I will be there for my kids as they were for me with Strength, Courage, and Determination.